May 2021
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Your At-Home Framing Kit frame comes with everything you need to install your artwork and hang it on the wall.
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Unwrap your frame and spread the sheet of foam or kraft paper it came wrapped in on a flat, clean surface. Place your frame face down.
Use the included screwdriver (with the flathead bit) to pry up the staples around the inside of the frame.
Once the staples are all the way up, flip everything back over and remove the frame and glaze, leaving the other components in a stack.
If your artwork is tightly curled up, flatten it for a day or two between the black and white foam boards.
Follow the steps below for frames without a mat. Turn ahead if your frame has matting or you are floating the artwork.
Place your artwork on top of the white backing board and align the edges.
Tap ahead to Acrylic Glaze step
Place your artwork face down on the mat, centering it within the guidelines. Now locate the strips of archival, linen tape that came in your kit.
If your frame came with a mat, gently flip it over. You should see guidelines traced around the window opening.
The tape should only be touching the back of your artwork and the back of the mat. Each piece should be 1-2 inches from the corner.
Peel off the backing and apply two pieces of tape to the back of your artwork along the top edge.
Carefully flip the matted print over, and stack it on top of the backing boards. The artwork should be completely overlapped by the mat.
If you need to reposition the tape, you should be able to peel it off slowly. If it seems stuck or has been on there a long time, apply a bit of heat with a blow dryer until it releases easily.
The acrylic comes covered with a white or blue liner. Take care to protect it from jewelry or hard surfaces that may scratch it.
If you ordered the Non-glare glaze, note that it is glossy on one side and matte on the other. Make sure the glossy side faces your artwork on the next step. (The other glazes are the same on both sides)
Placing a palm in the middle of the glaze, peel up the liner from the outer edges and work your way around until it's wadded up in the center and can be removed entirely. Repeat on other side
Before lowering it down onto your stack, clean the artwork side of the glaze with the microfiber cloth.
Align the edges of the glaze with the matting and foam boards.
Take care to avoid the edges of the glaze when cleaning as the cloth can get caught and frayed.
Inspect the top side of the glaze for particles, wiping them away with the dry cloth.
If there are particles underneath, lift the glaze just enough to reach and wipe them away, making sure not to touch the surface of your artwork.
For any smudges or stubborn particles, spray a few bursts of the glaze cleaning solution onto the cloth and lightly wipe them away using a circular motion.
Follow up with a dry part of the cloth to clear away any moisture or streaks that remain.
Once everything looks good, it's time to lower your frame on top of the artwork. First, make sure the flexible tabs are still pried all the way up around the frame.
Note the frame's hanging orientation by locating the pre-drilled holes (or any hardware installed) closer to the top.
Lower your frame onto the stack, matching the orientation of the art.
Once your frame is on securely, reach around the back with your fingers and press the insides to hold everything in place.
Slowly turn the frame over and lay it face down.
Close up the frame by firmly pressing down all of the staples.
Stretch the included wire across the back, and screw it into place (the screwdriver bit flips around to match the screws).
Peel off and place the two soft bumpers on the bottom two frame corners.
Congratulations! Your frame is complete.
Love how your frame turned out? Tag @levelframes in a photo to show off your framing skills. If we see and re-post it, we'll send $25 in credits for your next order.
Thoughts, questions or ideas on how we can make any part of your At-home framing experience better? We'd love to hear from you!
www.levelframes.com